DAY SIXTEEN: Monday, July 16, 2007 • Leaving Rome, Stuck in Dulles, Back Home Again

I had changed our car airport pick up time until 8 a.m. to be sure we had enough time to get our seat assignments. We got up a little after six so we could be fully packed and ready so we could have breakfast with Gary and Peggy before they left at 7:30. I paid my bill and it was exactly as promised €260 per night. We got the bellman to take our final picture together out side with the Pantheon in the background and then they jumped in their car and were off.
We had another half an hour for our car to come at 8 so we hung around the room and then went down about 7:55, got in our Alpha Romeo and were off to Fiumincino. This was the best €50 I have ever spent. The ride was about 40 minutes and the traffic was not bad at all. The United check in was a breeze there was almost no one in line in front of us and we were able to get a two row in the Economy Plus seat for $198 for the two of us. Security is always a little dicey, but it really wasn’t that bad. And we had about an hour and forty five minutes to burn. We boarded pretty close to on time and and were in the air at 11:55. Exactly three hours after we left the Del Senato. We arrived in Dulles right at 3. On the flight I watched three movies: 300, the Land of Women, and Blades of Glory. 300 was actually very interesting. The look of it was incredible.
Now we are sitting in Dulles waiting to leave. Our plan has been delayed fron 6:15 to 7:30. We will see what happens.

DAY SIXTEEN: Monday, July 16, 2007 • Leaving Rome, Stuck in Dulles, Back Home Again

I had changed our car airport pick up time until 8 a.m. to be sure we had enough time to get our seat assignments. We got up a little after six so we could be fully packed and ready so we could have breakfast with Gary and Peggy before they left at 7:30. I paid my bill and it was exactly as promised €260 per night. We got the bellman to take our final picture together out side with the Pantheon in the background and then they jumped in their car and were off.
We had another half an hour for our car to come at 8 so we hung around the room and then went down about 7:55, got in our Alpha Romeo and were off to Fiumincino. This was the best €50 I have ever spent. The ride was about 40 minutes and the traffic was not bad at all. The United check in was a breeze there was almost no one in line in front of us and we were able to get a two row in the Economy Plus seat for $198 for the two of us. Security is always a little dicey, but it really wasn’t that bad. And we had about an hour and forty five minutes to burn. We boarded pretty close to on time and and were in the air at 11:55. Exactly three hours after we left the Del Senato. We arrived in Dulles right at 3. On the flight I watched three movies: 300, the Land of Women, and Blades of Glory. 300 was actually very interesting. The look of it was incredible.
Now we are sitting in Dulles waiting to leave. Our plan has been delayed fron 6:15 to 7:30. We will see what happens.

DAY FIFTEEN: Sunday, July 15, 2007 • Sunday in Rome, Cappuccino and Carravagio, Santa Maria del Popolo, Galleria Doria Pamphilj, San Pietro in Vincoli

I decided to get up and take one of my classic runs through Roma at about 7:30 or so. My first desire was to check out the aftermath of the Massimo so I headed down past the cats, through the Jewish section and along the Tiber until I found it. Part of the stage was still up but there were hundreds of workers clearing every up. Genesis concert at the Circus Maximus. The main image I will remember were the thousands of crushed water bottles and their caps all lying everywhere. Then I looped around the Colloseum and tried to get into the Forum but it did not op[en until 8:30. I actually was stopped at a gate trying to go in. I had to back track and decided to try to find San Pietro in Vincoli which I remembered opened at 7:30. Luckily had had brought a map and finally found the right roads to get there. Up in the right corner was Michelangelo’s Moses, originally made to be a part of Pope Julius II. It depicts an angry Moses just returning from receiving the Ten Commandments only to get a glimpse of his people worshipping the golden calf. It was finished in 1515 and four meters tall. If Moses stood, he would nearly be the height of David. I ran back up through the corner of the forum on the stars where we had rested on Friday, past the Capitolino Museum on the Campodiglio Hill. I was able to find my second favorite view of the forum. I had run there last time were here. Then down a hill and I found a set of stairs right across fro the first church we had visited on Friday that would have taken me exactly where I wanted to go then. I then headed back to the pantheon and had been gone about an hour and ten minutes. A great run.
We met for breakfast at 9:30 and then headed out for the day. We found out that you could even get more than one cappuccino if you wanted it. But today we didn’t want another because Gary had found a couple of great caffe places in the top ten book. We first tried to take Christine to see the Caravaggios at the church San Luigi dei Francesi, but a mass was going on and we didn’t go in. We went back to the square with the dueling caffe places but the one that was open was called Sant’ Eustachio il Caffe’ Piazza St Eustachio. This was a great place with a New York Times review on the wall and everything. You had to but first and then get the cappuccino at the bar and it really was amazingly good.

Santa Maria del Popolo
We walked straight up Via Ripetta to the Piazza del Popolo to see the Caravaggio’s at Santa Maria del Popolo. When we got there we didn’t go in because a mass was going on there too. Gary wandered in but I went looking for an internet point and actually found one but it was closed. We waited a bit but finally went in while the mass was going on. We wandered up to the front and unbelievably during the Eucharist the organist played all of “Memories” from Cats. It was surreal. The service did end and we went up to the chapel on the left and found the two Caravaggio’s–the Crucifixion of St. Peter (4) and the Conversion of St. Paul (5). Both apparently were completed in 1601. There was quite a seen up in front as people were gathering even before the service was over and then waiting for the lights to come on. One guy was perturbed that people had gone in and another was so excited when the lights actually went on and he acted like he was responsible. We then went down to the Chigi and tried to determine which statue’s were the Bernini’s one certainly was the Habakkuk with the angel grabbing his hair and the other was of Isaiah. There were also works there by Raphael who had apparently started the chapel but left it unfinished 150 years earlier 1519-1523. We left just as another mass was starting so it had to be pretty close to 12. We tried the internet café again but it was still locked up tight. I found a sunglasses guy but decided to wait until I thought I might get a better deal. But there was also the fear I’d never see anyone with them again and I’d have to go back around the Trevi Fountain to find guys selling them. We walked across the Piazza del Popolo with its big Egyptian obelisk in the center. From there we walked down Via del Corso and bought Robert a pair of shorts. I remembered that we had been on a street called Via Margutta when we took our evening Rome walking tour and saw it on a map so I lead everyone over too it. It turned out not to be much because most of the cool antique shops were all closed because it was Sunday. But we blew Gary and Peggy’s mind when we actually drank out of one of the public water fountains. We then were looking for an internet point in that area but it seemed like it would be too upscale for there to be one. I also found the place Christine and I had stayed in 2003, . At one little stand I bought a lemon granita which tasted perfect in the heat. This was by far the hottest day of the trip. I’ll bet it was in the high 80s even low 90s with a touch of humidity. I thought it would be at least this hot every day, What a great blessing to have had such perfect weather for the entire trip. We were heading back toward Corso and found this shop with live models in the window promoting Coke Zero– two girls in bathing suits and a black guy in a Speedo. They were having a great time making everybody laugh and in the store others were hading out free samples of Coke Zero. We then went into this gorgeous newer indoor mall and found a guy playing a piano and a bathroom for Christine. Here we had another cappuccino and it may have been the best. It may have been a bit too hot for caffe drinks but it was still good. We wanted to go up to get aranci (deep fried rice balls) at Spizzco and even though Gary did not want to backtrack (food snob) we still got there and tried them.
We kept walking down Corso and many more shops were open than Lucca had said there would be. We just weren’t in much of a shopping mood, really on the whole trip for that matter.

Galleria Doria Pamphilj
We overshot the entrance to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj which was to be our next stop and finally found it in an inner road off Corso. The fee was €8 each but we got a free audio guide which was a must. My first rule of being in any gallery or museum, get the guide. The amazing thing about this place is that is still a private gallery own by the Pamphilj family. Our favorite and most famous paintings were the two Caravaggios, Rest on the flight to Egypt (6) and Mary Magdalene (7) and the Velasquez of the Pope. Also the Bernini bust of Pope Innocent X that you could touch in the same room as the Velasquez. (I didn’t). Being privately owned there was a charm and sense of age the most public galleries do not have. The collections also are set up in a specific order that the family wanted. Many were commissioned or purchased to fit exactly where they still hang. Amazingly we didn’t get “gallery fatigue” as early as I thought we would. We probably were there until about 3 when we headed over to see the Moses.

San Pietro in Vincoli
The great thing that I had never seen was that they had completely shut down the main street Via Dei Fori Imperiali from the Victor Emmanuel II Monument down to the Colosseum What a great idea-no traffic. Peggy and Gary bough some fruit on the street first a nectarine and then a cup of watermelon. We walked up Via Cavour looking at shops along the way and a car with a father and daughter on the way to a wedding who were obviously lost sopped at one corner as we waited to cross a street. We found the set of stairs that led up to the Piazza where San Pietro in Vincoli was. Much easier to find this time. The Moses is up in the chapel to the right. Two visits in one day is pretty amazing. We also got a closer look at the chains of St. Peter which were actually two sets, one from when Peter was in the Mamertine and the other was a set from Acts 12. As the legend goes when they were put together they miraculously intertwined to become a single set.
As we walked back Gary nearly took a cab as he was pretty well chafed from the heat. Major pain. On the way back we all got separated as I stopped and wheeled-and-dealed with a sunglasses street seller. I think they are barely worth €5 but I got three for €24 with the little bags I almost walked twice but the guy wanted to sell something. We walked back and found the internet place near the Largo Argentina. It was open but were weren’t able to get any seat assignments. We went back to the place, our wonderfully cooled place, and relaxed after a long hot day.
We also had an incredible time watching all the street theatre from our room. There was an incredible amount of action. We hooked back up with Gary and Peggy and Gary and I went down to the street level and took pictures of the ladies looking down from their bedroom windows. The rooms and the views were really amazing not sure I can ever stay anywhere else in Rome. We then went up and all met back on the roof top bar. The action was great. They had the umbrellas up but they didn’t actually much good to shade the sun at that time of day. The best part of watching the drama below was seeing what happened with the African salesmen of purses and belts and sunglasses. Every once in a while they would all leave the square, completely gone and then slowly return. Obviously they were being tipped when the police were coming as once when they all started going we soon saw a police car enter from the left and two undercover women carbinieri got out started walking across the piazza. We could see every bit of it, how they retreated, stopped and then finally disappeared as the police got closer. We also enjoyed looking at the Pantheon dome, watching the birds, listening to the bells–just in general enjoying the glory of the view.
Our dinner reservation was at a more reasonable eight. I was very surprised that Gary agreed to go back to Sostegno for a second night. I just wanted to be sure we had a reasonable and good final meal in Rome. Gary thought the strategy matched what we had done at Capricci–have a great last night’s meal that would be a guaranteed winner close to home. We got our exact same table and had another great meal. Christine and I each had an an antipasti and a primi. Christine had the proscuitto and melon when they said the melon was good today. I had the proscuitto and buffalo mozzarella which was a huge ball more tender than what we had yesterday. Gary had carpaccio with garden rockets and Peggy had the Capresi. For our primi I had an incredible fusilli with shaved zucchini that was very light ad delicious. Christine had the pasta with porcini Peggy had the pasta with carbonara and Gary had the Roman classic Veal Saltambocca. For dessert we ha a large and wild strawberry mix with vanilla ice cream. Again some of the sweetest berries I have ever eaten.
We wandered over to Della Palma while Gary stayed on the steps at the corner as he was still stinging pretty badly. Christine and I got pesca and limone and it was great. We walked around the piazza a bit and then went up to finish off the limoncello on the roof. We caught some more of the opera guy and saw the birds fly over–the end of a very special final evening in Rome. I stayed up and tried to catch up on my journal and finally went to sleep at about midnight.

DAY FOURTEEN: Saturday, July 14, 2007 • Vatican Tour, Sistine Chapel, Lunch in Trastevere, the Caravaggios, Dinner at Osteria del Sostegno

The room is freezing cold when the air conditioning is on but then gets pretty warm and stuffy once it goes off, so having the extra blankets really helped. We met for breakfast at 9:30 except it was down stairs and not up on the terrace, but at least it is included in the price of the room I had determined from looking at the email I had printed in Tuoro. A great bit of advice is to be sure to bring every bit of correspondence you have had with a hotel, airline or car rental place to use as verification if there is ever any question about the reservation or arrangements. It really was a great break fast with great bread and all the usuals. We even got an extra cappuccino. No spumute however. J
Vatican Tour
We were going to walk to the Vatican but then Gary suggest we take a cab (€8) to maximize the time. Roma cab rides are amazing. You thought that Gary could drive the Centro Storico through the narrow streets. These guys go place you would dare to tread. We drove up the main entrance toward St Peter’s and the view was stunning. We then darted around a side street to get back to the line. I had read about this line in guidebooks but oh my goodness. There had to be 10,0000 people and 300 yards long. I decided to take one last shot to see if my name was on the group list but when I got to the head of the line where the group guy was you had to produce a fax. I had failed. So I walked and walked and walked back to try to find where they were and they were even farther than I though it was possible they could be. I finally did find them but before I could go walking over to see what was up with the Scavi tour a guy came up and asked if we spoke English and then he presented up with a deal. If we went with him, for €45 each he would not only get us into the museum but we would have a registered Vatican guide. It was hot and even if we did get in we would be in that line for two and a half or three hours. So we said all right and followed the guy down a side street to an office. There we paid our money and it all seemed to be quite legit. They had group spots and just had to fill them. Sometimes they got people from hotels and sometimes they filled them from the people they grabbed from the line. Apparently the guy who found us gets €2 a head. Everyone is making money and we are happy. Then the wait started. We got there about ten and were told we would be going in momentarily. Then we were told it would just be ten minutes or so. The reality was that first they were waiting for the tour to fill at about 50 and then they were waiting from four people from a hotel. At any rate we didn’t get moving until after 11. We go past the group gate I had been at and then through a metal detector to get into the main lobby area. Our guy from the office had to get the ticket and that took much longer than expected. While we waited we me a bunch of lovely, grateful people. But somewhere around 11:30 we had a guide and we were off into the museum.
I never did hear our guide’s name, but she was terrific. She seemed to know everything about everything. First we stopped in a courtyard for a good look at the dome and then walked into a gallery and then through to another courtyard with this funky gold globe with another perfect world coming out of it. We then walked into a roman sculpture gallery and the most amazing thing she showed was the statue with the glass eyes still in it. Then it was up some stairs in the Belvedere to see the first the great view of Rome off to the right. Last time we were able to go out there and stand but there appeared to be some dignitaries out there so it was closed off. Then to the left we went into the courtyard to see the Apollo Belvedere, a Roman copy of a Greek statue found during the Renaissance. When it was discovered it was considered the most perfect work of art in the world. Next was the Laocoon, a Greek statue of a pagan high priest of Troy. It is considered the most famous Greek statue in all of ancient Rome and considered “superior to all other sculpture or painting” and then lost for over a thousand years. It was discovered in 1506 in Nero’s House the Domus Areas. It wthe next biggie was the Belvedere Torso, an ancient statue of Hercules. Michelangelo also studied it at length and used it as one of his major inspirations.
I’m not sure of the order but we did see Constantine’s sarcophagi, made though not used for his mother and daughter and then we walked down a long hall with beautiful maps on all the walls. It was really fun seeing the one with Lake Trasimeno and the exact place we had stayed. This time we really saw no painting. I was sad we did not get to see Raphael’s School of Athens. Glad we got to see it with Scala Reala last time in 2003.

Sistine Chapel
After the long hall of maps we walked down a set of stairs and then made a left turn to enter the most amazing gallery anywhere in the world–The Sistine Chapel Capella Sistina. First on the right is the full wall of the Last Judgment. The color of blue that Michelangelo created alone is breathtaking. I never really thought about it that much but back then each artist had to create his own color palette mixing them with what ever ingredients he could concoct. Really an entire other part of the creative process. Our guide pointed out Michelangelo’s own self portrait in the skin of St. Bartholemew that had been excoriated. The last judgment remarkable was painted 23 years after the ceiling had been finished in 1535. When the last Judgment was unveiled to the public in 1544, it caused a sensation. The pope is said to have dropped to his knees and cried, “Lord, charge me not with my sins when Thou shalt come of the Day of Judgment.”
As you walk down toward the center of the chapel you first notice all the throng of people and then you here ever few minutes some one loudly saying “Silencio.” But as soon as you look up none of the rest of it seems to matter. Pope Julius II asked Michelangelo to paint the ceiling of this chapel but he at first said no, but only agreed if he could do it his way. Julius at first just wanted the 12 apostles along the sides of the ceiling but Michelangelo had a much grander vision. He wanted to paint the entire history of the world until Jesus. He spent the next four years (1508-1512) on a scaffold six stories up covering the ceiling with these majestic Biblical scenes. The ceiling is around 5,400 square feet. Of course the creation of Adam is always amazing, But I was struck this time by the temptation and expulsion scene and the beauty and rich and unique colors of the Dephica heralding the coming of Christ. We could never stay in there long enough, but in a group our size with as many people who were there we were quite luck we got to stay as long as we did. We walked through the screen into the area and the end and then finally out the door to the spot where people were queueing up to walk to the top of the cupola on St. Peter’s dome. The Sistine chapel is probably the most beautiful single room and work of art anywhere in the world, bar none. One of those things that everyone should have the privilege to see once in his or her life. And to think I have been blessed to have seen it twice. Double the blessing that we almost did not have the opportunity today, especially when it was the one thing that Peggy really wanted to do while we were in Rome.
We then marched right into St. Peter’s Basilica and made our first stop at Michelangelo’s Pieta which he created when he was just 24 years old, and many would say he never equaled it. It is his only signed work. It would be so great if you could actually get close to at as you could before 1972 when that crazy dude started hitting it with a hammer on Christmas day.
We went by the bronze statue of St Peter that was part of the old church. As many pilgrims have for thousands of years we all walked up and touched his toes which are nearly completely worn. We topped and saw the Bernini canopy which seems to be and attempt by Bernini to try and out do Michelangelo. We looked at several other things them walked out the front, to the right and down the stairs to gt a look at the Pope’s residence and where the Sistine Chapel was and where the smoke comes out when they are selecting a new Pope. We finally walked through Bernini’s colonnade and across the street to give back our headsets. What an incredible way to do a tour with a very large group. You can stand everywhere and anywhere and still it it all perfectly. Our guide was spectacular to say the least. Right at that moment it was almost 1:45 and I decided to abandon making any attempt to resurrect my Scavi tour reservation. What seemed like a possible nightmare yesterday had worked out beautifully. Thank you Lord.
Gary had mentioned he wanted to see Trastevere and I have wanted to as well, so we walked through a gigantic tunnel and headed East along the Tiber. Along the way we stopped at an internet café to see if we could get seat assignments for our flight home, but they weren’t allowing it. We kept walking and with the help of our map we found it and it really was quite quiet and charming. In the cheap eats section of the Top Ten Rome book we found one place for pizza but it was closed and wound up at Pizzeria Da Vittorio, 14A Via Cosinato. It was number 8 on their list. My was great especially since Christine and I split on and it was only €5. finally a cheap lunch. Well with coperti and drinks maybe it wasn’t really that cheap.
We wandered back over the Tiber toward our place and split up when Peggy decided to continue on her mission to buy Capri pants for the boys. We stopped at Santa Maria sopra Minerva and went in to visit the amazing Michelangelo’s Risen Christ there. The church was built in 1280 over the site over an ancient Roman temple of wisdom. The statue was created nude, but now has a lovely bronze fig leaf.
We were back in our deliciously cool room by about four and got a grand nap. As soon as they got back Peggy called and I went down to look at the pants she had bought. Gary wanted to try and see the Caravaggio painting that a woman we stood in line with at the Vatican was telling him about. It was in the church San Luigi dei Francesi church very close to where we are at the Pantheon. First I took them back to see the Risen Christ and then we went on a Caravaggio hunt. The church was the San Luigi del Francesi the national church of France in Italy. It is very close to the Piazza Navona and just one steet over from the Parthenon. We found it quickly and went inside to see the Matthew Chapel and the three Caravaggio’s there, the Angel and St. Matthew (1) (center), The Calling of St. Matthew (3) (left) and the Martydom of St. Matthew (3) (right). The calling of St. Matthew got the number 7 spot on Top 10 Rome’s list of top ten Artistic masterpieces. It was his first large scale work done when he was 29. What an unexpected treat. Gary must have fed the light box five times. All three of us were totally fascinated, reading the beautiful explanations that ran down the side aisle then going back to look at the painting. This is one place and experience I had no idea would happen and be so amazing. Perhaps even more amazing I think Gary is actually getting hooked on seeing more Caravaggio’s. And Gary did not use to like going into museums and galleries hardly at all. We shall see what happens. We then went back to the del Senato and went upstairs to the sixth floor bar for a drink and a view. What a treat to be able to see the cityscape and the view of the roof of the Parthenon so well. Today probably was the hottest day we had had on the trip so far and in the direct sun it was warm but then one of the breezws would come up and it would be fine. It was amazing to see all the birds gather up there. The barkeeper eventually fed them on the other side to keep them occupied. I had made the dinner reservation for 7:30 at Osteria del Sostegno on Via Colonelle no more than 75 yards from the del Senato. This was the place that Christine and I had eaten twice at in 2003 and loved. The place was empty and we sat at the first four table on the left. The ladies were under the tent and we were able to look up and see the sky.
Emanuelle the maitre’d, said the melone wasn’t so good so we split a caprese for the primi piatti. He also brought us each a tomato bruschetta. For the segundi I had the pasta and zucchini flowers (which they called pumpkin flowers) and Christine had the most amazing asparagus lasagne in an amazing white sauce. We were able to sprinkle it with goat cheese or parmesian. Gary had something with two eggs and tartuffo and Peggy had the melanzane parmesiana. Tonight we used the 1-2 strategy: one primi to split and two secundi, one for each. We did not plan to have dessert but we had seen one of the women bring out a box of fresh fruita and when we asked about it he showed us the most beautiful strawberries and blueberries and the most amazing tiny wild strawberries. So we had to have the mix with vanilla ice cream. It may have been my favorite dessert of the trip. It was that good. We also had the excellent house wine and the whole bill came to €50 per couple. Pretty amazing considering we had spent €80 the night before with out dessert. We went for a walk after dinner over to Piazza Navona and stopped at a bookstore before we got there Christine and Peggy had a great time looking at cookbooks and Gary found the Caravaggio books. J We then got over to Piazza Navona and it was the happening place. The new take and the statue guys was a guy who looked like he was a businessman in a rush with his briefcase swept back and his tie flying. It was amazing how he could hold the pose. He didn’t really do anything when you gave him money except raise his eyebrows. Not sure he was making much money. The Berninni fountain was under renovation so you couldn’t see much of it. We also say a guy doing juggling who had drawn a huge crowd. Peggy was enjoying looking around so we hung around awhile and caught some street musicians playing “Stairway to Heaven.” We even saw King Tut get out of character and reach down in his suit and scratch himself. We wandered back to out piazza and stopped to hear a guy singing opera then went down the street to have gelato at the Cremeria, the place that Lucca from the Del Senato had recommended. It definitely not as good as Della Palma. One last evening activity we went up and looked out over the city from out the bar area on the sixth floor. What a treat. We had heard that there was a free Genesis concert going on over at the Circo Massimo and that there might be up to 500,000 people there. Another day and time Peggy and I would have been there checking it out, but we were just too tired so we called it a day. And what a day it was

DAY THIRTEEN: Friday, July 13, 2007 • Leaving Capricci, Orvieto, Train to Roma, Albergo del Senato

I slept like a rock. This was the best bed ever. I woke up about 6:15 and read awhile and then went out and wrote on the patio. At 8 I went out for a 20 minute run down our shortcut to the main road then around under the tunnel and up into town. I love walking through Tuoro in the morning with all the hustle and bustle of a small town coming to life. I was back by 8:30 and had more time to write and as I looked up I saw a lovely yellow bird singing up on an antenna less than 15 feet away. I even got Christine out in time to see it before it flew away.
We had breakfast in the inside room because the family that sat next to us at dinner was at our table. This really threw off our server Katrina. We all winced when one of the kids went up and plucked the harp! After breakfast we all packed, paid the conto, and were on the road by 11 even though the luggage had grown a bit and Gary ahd to reprint his rental car infor by sending it up to Stephano’s computer. The Irish couple from Cork had failed their mission to get a schedule so we would just have to figure it out on the fly.
We stayed on the main road and then got on the A1 to Orvieto. I think the entire drive took just about an hour. We got off the road which was a toll road (3.50), filled the tank, found the train station, asked a carbineiri where the Hertz place was (across the street) and headed up the hill to have a look at Orvieto

Orvieto
Gary and Peggy had been there before. They had seen the cathedral but had never been in it. Apparently it was closed. At any rate me probably had a bout a half an hour tops to see what we could see, so Gary headed into the Centro Storico. We cruised through some of the narrowest streets ever but then we burst out in to the main piazza and there was the basilica with its gorgeous façade that Peggy had been raving about. It was open and it was a mind boggler. The columns and throughout were made of this beautiful green marble interspersed with white. It was as unique of an interior as I have ever seen. It was also amazing as there were so few people and virtually no chairs there. We walked up toward the altar and went into a chapel on the left but I don’t know if we knew exactly what we were seeing. Peggy just loved it and she went out to the car to watch the stuff so Gary could come it and look around. This would definitely be a place to come back to. We probably were only there about 20 minutes or so before we headed back down to turn in the car.
We dropped the girls off at the train station and drove over to drop off the car at the Hertz place but no one was there. Gary went into the beauty parlor next door but they wouldn’t let him call the number that was on the door. So I walked back over to see if we could figure out how to use Christine’s cell phone to call. By the time we got the country code and called when the woman she was back in the office talking to Gary. I walked back over there and Gary was all done at the exact price he was expecting.
Christine had bought the tickets at €7.10 each and we lugged all our stuff down and back up to track two. Gary got us all some gelato and Christine figured out how to use the automated toilet across the tracks for €.20. We were scheduled on the 1:26 to Roma and it came right on time and we got on and it took off in no less than three minutes. We left our luggage out in the open area by the door at the front of the car and found seats. Gary went out exploring and found a cup of hideous coffee and a sandwich. When the train food dude came by I got Christine a coke. I took a nap and the trip went by pretty fast. Gary or I would jump up any time we pulled into a station to be sure our bags didn’t fly out the door.

Roma
To the best of my recollection we pulled into Roma Termini at 2:50. We went out a side door and after a little discussion got one cab to take all of us and our luggage down to the Albergo del Senato. It all went very smoothly and we were checking in at just a little after three.
Our rooms were both on the third (fourth) floor and both had absolutely stunning views of the Parthenon right out our window. Thank you Lord for working that one out. I was hoping a fax would have come from the Vatican about the group tour I tried to sign up for, but it hadn’t come. At least I still had the Scavi tour for tomorrow, but Peggy’s number one desire was to see the Sistine Chapel.
We got settled in and then decided to start walking around to see some of the city. We first checked out the Pantheon which was crawling with people, then we walked down to the place where all the cats are then through the Jewish section, past the theatre of Marcellus, into a church nearby that I don’t remember the name of and finally we found a opening to the gate and entered the fabulous forum. I want ed to end from up above by the Capitoline museum, but I didn’t hit it quite right. Where we entered was close to parallel to the Mamertine prison, but just on the opposite side of the forum. We filtered over and up under the arch that is right there then up a bunch up stair and into the Mamertine Prison. Very moving but I don’t remember it smelling so funky. After leaving there we hung out on some stairs around the corner and then went over to the spot Christine and I like to go and hang out at and watch the crowds pass by. Gary and Peggy liked it too. Christine was fascinated watching a kind with a professional looking video camera filming this one little boy over and over again. It was kind of weird.
We sort of retraced our steps to go back to the arch that depicts the plundering of the temple in 70 A.D., the one that has the video camera on it. We walked all the way back to the Coliseum, then bought these delightfully frozen waters for €2 each, and headed back toward home along the main. It was cool to see the building that had the huge maps of the Roman empire depicted on it. We walked up to via del Corso and walked along it for a while see if any stores were selling man capris, “man pants.” We didn’t see much and eventually cut over to get to the Pantheon. It wasn’t too bad but we came in lower than I really wanted to.
Gary had gotten all excited about having dinner at a place quite a way away that his dad remembered going to over twenty years ago called Abasciata di Abruzzo at Via Pietro Tacchini, 26 (Parioli). It was about a €15 cab ride and we had reservations at 8. We sat outside and got a meal that had several antipasto selecrions and then a selection of primi piati that you get quite a bit of. The must fun part was the basket of seven or eight different types of sausages that you cut yourself. But it was all pretty forgettable and very expensive at €80 per couple.
We had the cabby drop us off at the Spanish Steps and then we walked over to the Trevi Fountain by my winding way which I was not too sure that anyone really appreciated. We did find the fountain and I threw a coin in as Jeannine Somers had told me too. J We wandered back toward the hotel past a whole bunch of Africans mostly selling purses and a hundred other things. Then heard a band concert going on on a nearby piazza and wandered over to find it. When we had seen the set up earlier I thought it might have been some kind of a high school band from the states performing to give them a reason to take a trip to Rome. But I think it was an Italian group that was amazingly good and the acoustics in the square were amazing. We then wandered up to the gelato place that was Rick Steve’s favorite Della Palma. It looked like they had 30 kinds of chocolate. Christine had a Peach and Limone and I had Fragola and I don’t remember. J The crowd in the Pantheon square was really buzzing. We saw a group sing acapella under the portico and wandered around a bit and finally went up to our room, 307, looked out for a while and then started getting ready for bed.
I decided to look through my papers about the Scavi tour and then I made the discovery that I was supposed to pay for the tour over a month ago so I would surely be cancelled. So basically the situation was that I had nothing. No Vatican tour, no Sistine Chapel tour, no Scavi tour, no nothing. Can’t trust me to do anything. So needless to say I did not sleep well wondering what we were going to do. I at least thought we could stand in line and get into the Vatican museum that way. But I knew that God would somehow miraculously take care of us. I still though did not like how I was felling about it all.

DAY TWELVE: Thursday, July 12, 2007 • Puntana!, Gubbio-It is Something!,

I woke up and finished Bella Tuscany, wrote a while and headed out for a morning run at about 8. I decided to see what I could see of the Trasimeno battlefied and the sights that were promised form the signage on the main road. I ran all the way out into the field area and found one of the markers and then headed back past the campo sportive and found the Roman Column. Oooooooooohhhhhhhhhhh. I made it back before nine and we were all at breakfast by 9:30.

Puntana!
We all sat around the breakfast and had a great conversation about out kids and the youth ministry and did not leave Capricci until 11. We decided to head up to Gubbio for the day. Gary had asked the owner Andrea for directions and she said it would take about 50 minutes to get there. We headed out on the main road and as Andrea’s directions took the exit at Mantignana then headed up toward Pierantonio. We thought we could be lost a couple of times as the signs were few and far between but we figured we could always go to Umbertide and figure it out from there. There were a whole lot of trucks on the road, three sometimes four at a time. Then we saw the first one. She was sitting in a chair with a green umbrella. A woman sitting next to a busy road country road? I immediately remembered what I had read in Bella Tuscany. Francis had told a story about seeing women sitting all along a road. The ones she describes were black, from somewhere in Africa, and had been forced to become some kind of sex slaves. I didn’t see her that closely but Gary said the one we had seen was definitely black. I explained to everyone in the car what I had read and what I guess she was, but nobody (especially Peggy) quite believed that was what she was. In just another couple of minutes there was another one. What was the probability? Then three were two more standing by the side of the road who looed like hookers. By the time we got off this stretch of road I think we had counted seven that we had seen. Later that evening we had asked Cristina one of our servers what they were and she smiled and immediately gave us the Italian name I had been looking for–puntana!

Gubbio
We got to Pierantonio and head up a main superstrada, but got off pretty quickly at the turn for Gubbio which was still 15K or so away. The terrain was pretty, but the big question was building: “Would Gubbio be anything?” I remember seeing stuff on it in the guidebooks, but I could not tell you a single thing except that I think it had a Roman theatre. The number of K on the signs on the side of the road was decreasing as the anticipation was rising. We even were able to tell each other the three things we liked best about Gubbio before we got there. 1. the main piazza; 2. the duomo, 3. the frescoes!
When we got into town after seeing the Gubbio sign we were feeling disappointment. It seemed more like Gubberbia. Nothing exciting at all. Then we made a left turn and there it was sprawled up that huge hill. It seeped like a mix of many amazingly different shapes and architectural styles. We all gasped and started cheering. Gubbio was definitely something! We passed the ruins of the Roman theatre. I had been right about that. WE then blazed into town and immediately foudn the parcheggio. I got in trouble from Christine when I used the WC with the door open (couldn’t figure out how to shut the door). We quickly sighted the tourist information place and got maps and a guidebook from a guy who called every man who spoke English “mister.” Armed with maps and info we headed up the hill and stopped at one church and then kept heading up to the main piazza stopping along the way at several cerimiches. Apparently the Gubbio area is also know for it’s ceramic majolica ware like Deruta.
We probably had looked in three or four shops when we came into an art gallery with a bunch of paintings by a man named Christiana (?) done on glass with exquisite scenes of Tuscany, Italy, Girasole, and red poppies. We all fell in love with both the pictures and the fabulous frames. WE found the price list and they were in the $400-$1,500 range. We stayed there for a long time–looking, pricing, deciding which ones we really liked the best. We walked out of the shop over to the piazza and I told Gary if Peggy didn’t follow us out of the shop in 30 seconds they were going to buy one. Thirty seconds passed and we still hadn’t seen them. We walked around a bit more and looked for stuff to see, but most everything was shut down for the midday break which here goes from about 1-3. We eventually decided to stop walking and have a bite of pranza. Little sandwiches, Fanta, water. This time, €10 per couple. He even threw in several bruschetta. It was a nice relaxing time.
We walked back up the hill to the painting shop and after much discussion they did not buy the big gorgeous one with only red poppies, but a smaller one with red poppies and a scene of Tuscany. The whole thing with shipping and insurance was c900. the perfect 30th anniversary remembrance. However, it was quickly evident Christine would have really liked one too but that the time just wasn’t right. Maybe one day. One of those long ones would have looked really good over the kitchen area.
Peggy was then on a mission to buy something with the Gubbio crest on it. The main symbol on the crest looks like a baseball mitt but I bet it must be a shell. On some of them there is a cute little smiley face. Not sure what part of the middle ages it represents. They looked, but Gary wasn’t really in to it so I think in reality they bought nothing for the boys with the crest on it. We retraced out steps back to the car and took picture by the WWI monument and then headed out of town to find an internet point. We never did find it and so decided just to head out of town to Perugia via a new route. WE were looking for puntana but only saw an empty chair next to a parked truck. Our eyes were peeled looking for the next one and we turned a corner and there she was sitting on a chair, quite big, old and not pretty. Ewwwwwwwww we all screamed. And then it was over.
I had asked Christine what was the percentage that she really wanted to shop for ceramics in Deruta and when she said absolutely zero, we quickly changed the plan and headed back to Capricci. WE did stop in a small town along the way to look for an Internet point and after talking with at least three people, one of whom acted like he had never heard of the internet, another thought we might find it in a fotografia shop and another swaid a guy down the street might let us use his, we 9ave up and returned to Tuoro. We knew there was a spot in the library/tourist office but when we tried in the morning it was being used. When we arrived, I jumped out only to find a guy on it but he said he would only be another 20 minutes. Gary had gone to park the car at Capricci and drop Peggy off, so Christine and I sat in the big comfortable couch in the lobby area. Gary came back and then went for a walk around town. But soon we were on and all was well. I checked some email and some of my accounts and it looks like the Euro is right around $1.36. Just about what I had thought. We made it back to the Capricci somewhere before 4 and 5. So there was still some good time for reading, napping and relaxation.
I met Gary down at the spa at about 6 and I got the new and improved dinner plan. He had talked to someone and found they had some interesting special so why don’t we just eat here on the last night and totally enjoy the evening. It sounded good especially because it meant Gary would not have to drive. I checked with Christine and she agreed although neither of us really were looking to eat that much.
When we sat down at a little after 7:30 Gary and Peggy were already there. Christine had to take a call from Rebecca about the property apparently some papers are going to have to be signed on Monday, but it does appear that the deal will be going through in October. The team was all there to take care of us Sergio with his cravat, Christine with the diamond in her tooth, and a new guy Piccollo Mauro who may be even shorter than Gary. We did finally determine that Livio IS the chef. So on Monday for lunch it was the chef who served us. It was much warmer and less windy than it had been on Tuesday night. We began with flutes of Prosecco and an amuse busch of ricotta and zuchinni rolled together. For the starter we had these amazing BAKED stuffed zucchini blossoms, then Christine and Peggy had a baked ravioli dish and I had the raviolo I had had at lunch on Monday. They got the order wrong and had to go back and make it I think. Livio sent out a dessert with his compliment. We also had a great Sangrantino from Montefalco, a great Umbrian wine.
The whole exchange with Christina when we asked her about the women on the side of the road and here immediate connection answer Puntana was an absoluter hoot. How fun it was to have such a great set of servers. They really made the plane unlike Stephano and Andrea who were really pretty weak at being innkeepers.

DAY ELEVEN: Wednesday, July 11, 2007 • Morning Drive to Montepulciano and Cortona, Isola Maggiore on Lago Trasimeno

Morning tour of Centro Storico of Montepulciano and Cortona
Gary and I decided to get up early and head out on a little reconissance mission. Another dry run. Hence Gary’s nick name Dr. DR. Ww had thought about leaving at 6:30, but though better of it and agreed on 7. I was freaking out because Christine didn’t want to leave the phone on for me to use that alarm. I tried to get my watch alarm set, but I had absolutely no confidence in it. Needless to say I didn’t sleep all that well because of it and I was fully awake before six. I slipped out onto our cool patio with its unbelievable view of the lago and tried to catch up on this journal in the time I had. The sun was rising in the east and I could smell great bread baking somewhere. This patio is quite interesting in that you can not see it from the street. It appears as only a small slit in the roof. This also means there is a wall around the area which really gives total privacy. I can stand up and see out to the lake, but when sitting the small cast iron table with two chairs and a couple of splotches of bird poop, I can’s see anything except he brown tile floor, yellowish tan wash on the walls and a tiny bit of the roof. But all I have to do is stand up and I get a full 180 degree view of the lake and a great clump of cypresses straight ahead.
I got down stairs at about 6:55. No Gary. I even had to unlock the front door to let myself out. I sat oout in the patio area and waited. At exactly 7 I heard a phone ring upstairs at exactly 7 and know it must be Gary’s wake-up call from Stephano and sure enough in about two minutes There was Gary and off we went.
Our first goal was to check out Montepulciano, here after referred to as “the puch.” We got onto the main highway but turned south and tried to wind our way there over the back roads. I worked the map but Gary also has a great sense of where he is and can make quick decisions about the direct he needs to go. It really turned out to be no problem. We had a little slow up as we waited at one of those traffic light things on the side of the road while some workers got ready to continue with some major improvements on the road. In less that 40 minutes we were climbing the hill to the puch. Many claim that the view from the valley below is really the best view of all but we push up into the city in our black Peugeot. Because there was very little traffic we went flying up into the centro storico. Gary has extreme confidence and no fear although we were almost creamed by a huge Mercedes truck in the heart of the city. Actually I would have been the one who was creamed. We swung back around, kind of made a loop, headed down the hill out of town. We stopped along the way and got gas and I took a picture back toward the city. We then headed toward Cortona. The signs directed us in a weird looping way but we finally found it. It is on the top of a hill but at the base of the hill is quite a large town with many shops and much activity. We climbed up the hill and Gary again blazed his way into the centro storico. It was about ten to nine and the signs said the center closed to cars at nine so we were fine. We had to dodge a bunch of trucks unloading goods for the day but we kept driving downhill and eventually escaped. Al least for Gary nothing seemed to be drawing him there or holding him there, so our one time plan of having dinner there tonight or even taking the women there seemed to be evaporating. Looking at the map I saw a back road way which we decided to take. We wound up one hill and on the back side discovered a dilapidated old church which Gary was convinced would be a great spot for dinner, but when we checked it out there really wasn’t anything there. “Is it something?” No, it isn’t anything. The cross roads town was called Mercantile and from there we headed back up another hill and the signs said that Touro was 6K away. At the top of the hill we found a restaurant with a stunning view and lawyer lawn chairs. A dinner possibility, so we stopped to check it out and like true Italians we stepped up to the bar and ordered due café at €1 each. We then headed back down the hill and were back from our adventure at 9:30. Just in time to find the ladies down for breakfast.

Isola Maggiore on Lago Trasimeno
Our plan for the day was to get some exercise and go for a hike first down to the lago and the lido, then to take a boat ride over to the second largest of the three Isola Maggiore. We probably again left about eleven and walked the exact route I ran in the morning. It was interesting that tight before we crossed under the freeway in a tunnel there were some carbinieri by the side of the road pulling people over. We saw it again later in the trip. Some kind of a random checkpoint thing. We walked into the park along the water and then past the weird statues commemorating the battle of Trasimeno. We checked out the schedule of times the ferries were leaving and then walked out to the ticket sales book and found we had missed the 11:40 and would have to take the 12:20 all for €9.40 for the two of us. It was probable a 15 minuteish ride and we arrived to a bunch of shops, a few restaurants and I think a hotel. Immediately I bought a guide in English with a map. The island is about 24 hectares in area, two kilometers in perimeter and at the highest point is 308 meters above sea level. We decided to hike around the perimeter but were stymied by a locked gate and fence. I’m not sure Peggy was ever convinced she couldn’t get in there. In my book I am currently reading Francis Mayes’ Bella Tuscany, she talks about spending the night on the island and then asking to see the unoccupied house and being shown it all. Supposedly someone from Rome owned it and some day was going to fix it up. Apparently 2007 is that time.
We hiked up to the Church of Saint Michael the Archangel but it was closed. As we hiked down, we discovered a monument to St. Francis that supposedly houses a block of stone that served as a pallet when he was on the island during lent of 1211. He fasted on the island for 40 days. Further down the trail there is a decaying wooden statue of St. Francis that we could find no information on and then one of bronze that is no more than 20 years old. We walked all around the perimeter and saw a nesting pheasant along the water’s edge and made it back to the settlement. Next we hiked up to the old (wind) mill which one map described as a Roman tower. We went back down, I bought two aprons, and we stopped at the little café where I had bought water earlier and had a bite of lunch. A paninni and a bite of gelato. I had nothing as I was at least trying to be hungry for dinner. We caught the 2:40 ferry back and hicked back through the statues and up to Tuoro. We explored a bit and found an even faster way to get back than I had found in the morning. Once you actually looked at it it was amazing how far we looped back as we went up the hill. We probably got back to Capricci by 3:30 or 4. Enough time for a dip. I stayed up in the room and wrote a little and Christine went down and actually swam. By the time I got down there I wasn’t warm enough to swim so I just sat out and read. Gary ordered a bottle of red wine which Sergio delivered with four glasses and some salami, bread and cheese. Perfetto.
Gary had borrowed a guide on Umbria from a couple from Cork and he found a place in Castelo Rigone called Ristorante La Corte in Relais La Fattoria. It was a 40 minute drive up a windy road, but we parked and got there in time of our 8 p.m. reservation. We tried to eat outside, but it was just too cold so we moved in and it was quite an elegant place all in white with the bowed chair covers. Three of us had the pris fixe €28 menu. Which consisted of a scrambled egg and toast thing with olives. A pasta with porcinis and a pork course with a great balsamic reduction which Christine and Peggy thought was too sharp, but I loved. The dessert was describes a milk pudding but was really a flan with almonds and caramel. The wine we had was a Rosso di Multipuciano from Avignonesi which Frances Mayes also mentioned in her book Bella Tuscany, Robert the owner spoke with us and asked us how we found Capricci and we told him all about Trip Advisor. After we wedged the car out of the lot we made it back without incident.

DAY TEN: Tuesday, July 10, 2007 • Assisi, the Table, Basilica de San Francesco, Dinner with Livio

I woke up and decided to take a big run down to the lake. I think I left about 8 and found the direct route to town and the restaurant we ate at yesterday. It was pretty easy getting there except I had to run along down a busy street which was a tad scary. As I ran by one garden I saw one older woman picking a number of zucchini blossoms. I made it under the freeway and found the Lido di Tuoro which is really kind of a cheesy resort amusement park area. I found the modern statues that I have read about that commerates the battle of Hannibal and the Romans in 219 BC when his forces killed 15,000 Romans in the marshes hear the lake. I also found where the ferry leaves for Isola Maggione and spotted a woman I recognized from the pool yesterday. I make it back run walking and the whole trip took just about an hour. I was definitely ready for breakfast at 9:30.
We had kicked around what would be the best sequence for our three days here in Umbria. I thought that we should start north in Cortona and work south to Asissi, but Peggy suggested that we do the big day first and go to Assisi and Perugia on Tuesday and play it by ear from there. I rankled a bit at the idea last night, but I decided that it made perfect sense and to just go with the flow.
I had also discovered that there was a huge week-long jazz festival going on in Perugia called the Umbria Jazz festival. Tonight Keith Jarrett with Jack DeJonette and Gary Peacock were the headliners. Christine and I thought it would be a fun thing to do if somehow it seemed easy and we cound get ticket. But that would have to wait until we got to Perugia to check it out. On Friday night was Pat Metheny and Brad Meldau. This was the real thing. If nothing else we will have to plan to come back just for this.

Assisi
I don’t remember exactly when we left but it had to be between 10:30 and 11 so we headed south past Perugia to start out day’s adventure in Assisi. Then work our way back to Perugia. It couldn’t have taken much more than an hour so by around noon we had found a parcheggio and were on our way to discover Assisi. We started up at the top as far as you could get from the Basilica of San Francesco, the main building of the town. The first place we stopped was the Church of San Rufino. The most interesting features were the sculpture of Mary with the daggers in her heart and the special exhibit of painting of Pope Paul II. We had absolutely no information on Assisi so I decided to go to a shop across the street and buy a tour guide. Peggy came with me and we looked for a little too long as the old shopkeeper freaked out when I wasn’t quickly buying one. She kicked us out and started screaming heatedly. I quick fought back and bought the €4 one which actually turned out to be pretty lousy. But it was something.
We wandered up a hill and stopped next at a church that had to do something with Mary and a rose and in it was this weird display of symbolic statues of Mary. I wandered in to look at the display and the woman launched into a huge rap on these sculptures and how the different way you held them represented the different aspects of Mary and her life. It was really freaky actually, but I loved having someone fire away at me in Italian. We then wove our way down to the main square Piazza del Commune and the seven columned-Roman Temple of Minerva which was changed into a Christian church somewhere along the way. I got a better map at the tourist information office and then we wandered down the main way toward the Basilica de San Francesco. We stopped at a bunch of shops and even bought the girls a set of earrings. In the store where we bought the earrings Gary had seen some paintings he liked by someone named Martini.

The table
In the shop next door we wandered in and Gary asked a question about Martini and found out he was just copying a more well-known painter called Norberto. As we look around this shop we all saw some of the most beautiful stone tables any of us had ever seen. They were inlaid with all kinds of exotic stone including lapis and others. We asked how much they cost and the blue one with the lapis was around €15,000 and the green and yellow one was closer to €9,000. They would ship one for about €700. Oh could you see the minds beginning to process. It took about five minutes to realize just how much Gary was loving these tables and that it was actually in the realm of possibility that he would buy one. He first fell in love with the blue one but then thought that perhaps the green and yellow one would actually go better with the room as it is. We even asked how much the coffee table was and it was €7000. Gary and Peggy quickly had that look of this could really be a possibility and then Gary was gone. I found him sitting across the street down a few paces. He needed to get out of there before he really started to wheel and deal. We kept talking about it as we stopped for lunch at some quick serve pizza place. I got a pretty good tasting Pannini Rustica and an Orange Fanta and they got some gross pizza (Gary said it reminded him of seventh grade cafeteria pizza). As we walked Gary made the comment if the Jordan’s got a new table and the Gubitzes got a new table. Then the Nemys would really be pissed”

The Basilica de San Francesco
We wandered down the main drag after we ate and wound up at the Basilica de San Francesco the church that was built up around St. Francis’ burial place beginning on May 25, 1230. We all got audioguides which are an absolute must as there is so much to learn you could never get on your own. We started in the upper church and the incredible Giotto 28 fresco cycle. We also visited the lower church and then the remains of St. Francis himself in the crypt. It really is an amazing place. I cant think of one other church with that many frescoes.
From there we started walking up this tower in the north east corner, but turned around when one guy passing by said it was another four meters to get there. We wound up back in the main piazza, piazza del commune and had a gelato under a weird new fresco with crazy erotica going on. From there we high tailed it back to the parcheggio place and if I wasn’t a Christian I might have thrown my guidebook back at the old woman’s shop and called her a witch in Italian. I’m glad God still gives me some restraint. We got the car and headed out of town and tight out of town we stopped by the side of the road as there was a great field of sunflowers through which you could see the basilica. As we pulled up the street a guy almost hit us but we found the superstrata and headed back toward Tuoro. We had decided to dump Perugia from the itinerary in the day and we fell in love with Assisi.
We must have been back by five or six and somewhere in there we took a dip and then the three of us sans Christine used the wellness room for s whirlpool and a sauna. Then believe it or not it was eight and time for the dinner.
We had a table for four out in the patio area. There eventually were two other couple–one guy with tattoos–and a family. Our servers were Livio, Katrina, and Tanya and it was quite windy and we had to decide if we would be too cold, but eventually the wind did die down. The food was excellent again. As a result of our €7.70 lunch we were actually hungry I think. The amazing elements of the meal were the huge friend zucchini blossoms that they originally described as pumpkin blossoms! I think three of us had the little pork chop secundi. Peggy had the same Primi that Christine had yesterday for lunch. But I’m not sure anything equaled the raviolo I had yesterday. Christine and Peggy split the peach dessert and I got stuck drinking the grappa. WE even got to hear the harpist, which did turn out to be the owner Andrea. Love hearing “Beauty and the Beast” in Italy. Perhaps the best part of the meal was just walking up the 48 stairs to our rooms when we were ready.

DAY NINE: Monday, July 9, 2007 • Barrel Tasting with Edith, On to Capricci di Merion in Umbria, Lunch with Livio

I woke up the first time at about 6:30 and then rested a while and then came out to write a little before 8 and I have been enjoying the morning ever since. I met the German couple who are here for the fourth time. They are very nice and seem to also be good friends with Edith and Catello. I have been enjoy sitting in my little corner table even if I had to move a bit to give the German man a sunless spot for him and his wife to have breakfast. It was great to watch all the action unfold. First the waitress coming out to set the tables, the the German man out for a dip, having brief conversations with him and any one who walked by the patio. Finally Gary showed up and even Peggy made it out before Christine. I went up to get Christine when I thought they were going to run out of the freshly sliced peaches. This breakfast routine is becoming a favorite. Two dabs of jam on the bottom of the bowl, some crunchy flakes on top, covered with plain white yogurt. The texture, the crunch, the smell, the taste. I love it. Our server knows now that I want a cappucino. I wish I had gotten her name. The German couple gave her big hug and she beamed to see them. Chris (we’re not to know he’s a doctor) went by to pay his bill. I had heard the family of three over the hedge, but I think they were gone. Someone later said they had a train to catch. It is very interesting how when you are traveling people come into your life, you make quick friends, and then they or you are gone moving on to the next set of new friends. I don’t remember exactly how it came up, but apparently Edith asked Chris when they wanted to leave and if it would be all right for the men to work on the road for about an hour. I think she asked around 8:30 and by the time I heard about it, it was approaching 9:30 and no one was even working on the huge trench that had been dug right across the hill that lead up to our parking lot. This all seemed so Italian. This gave us time to see the two apartments that the two families had been staying in. They each had two rooms and two baths and the one that the P family was in could easily could sleep six. We even walked through the one that the family of three had been in and it was quite nice too. Edith said something later about the apartments going for €80 per person per night, so that didn’t seem like such a great deal even in comparison to Borgo Argenina. Edith showed up and caught us snooping around , but she didn’t care and it gave her a chance to get after the workers to close up the hole.
It was sometime in this sequence that we asked Edith what exactly “Allora” means. She smiled with that twinkle in her eye and said “Allora, it means everything and nothing at the same time.” I also had found out that Edith is 52 almost exactly me age. It seems weird for the innkeeper to be your age. For so many years they were always the motherly type. Hmmm, the joys of getting older.
It also seemed like a great time so I asked if she would give us a tour of the wine production area. Both families followed her down to the cellar below the house and even the German woman Gisella was delighted to come as she had never had the tour either. The tour was great. We learned about the double fermentation process saw all the vats and even had a barrel tasting from two huge vats. I think we tasted a 2006 and more of the 2004. We all took pictures and had a great time. While we were there you could hear the backhoe and the workers nearby. While there we got the word that the trench had been cleared, so Chris and Susan and family went out to load up and get on the road. We asked if Edith would show us the chapel and she did. The outside is much more impressive than the inside. They are hoping to get some money from the government to help restore it.
As we came up from the chapel we stopped and settled our bills. I paid cash for the dinner and we found we had to pay for wine on top of the dinner. So it wound up being €40 same as at Elena’s. It wasn’t clear exactly how fast we were trying ot get out of there so Christine and I dawdled a little as we packed. I even took a whirlpool. But Gary came up and let us know they were ready to go even as I was finishing up my bath. So we hustled, threw it into a new gear and got all our stuff down before 12. Somehow we got it all in the car once again and we pulled out at about 12:04. Good bye Fattoria Tregole.

On to Capricci di Merion in Umbria
We headed over to the main road at Badesse and got on the same Super strada we had been on to go to Montalcino, but we turned off and headed toward Arezzo and then Perguia. Gary knows no speed but super fast. So I prayed a lot for the strength of the tires and I hoped Christine was sleeping, but we got there in about an hour and 15 minutes. We turned off the big auto strada at the Lago Trasimeno exit but drove toward the lake instead of up toward the town. We realized about where we needed to go and finally saw a sign and from there it was pretty easy. They call I Capricci di Merion an Antiqua Residenza, but it really is nestled in the town and a bunch of housing behind. No one appeared to be there when we arrived. We left the women sitting under a tree at a table sitting in the garden patio area. Gary and I check in and went through the room selection process. He has gotten the choice at Tregole so I got the choice here. It was either the Casanova room on the second (really third) floor or the Moliere room on the third (really fourth) floor. At Moliere had the balcony and a shower, I chose that one. The views of Lago Trasimeno was spectacular. Once the rooms were chosen we had to get the luggage up, but the woman at the desk had already shown us the elevator. WE knew this time that you have to hold the button down to make it work. It was perfect as all our stuff weighs a ton. How did we ever get it into that little Peugeot?

Once we got all the stuff in the rooms we went down to find the ladies still at the table where we had left them. We asked where we could get pranza (lunch) were asked if we wanted to have lunch here at the hotel and we thought “why not?” so they immediately started stetting up the exact same table at which the girls were setting. Our waiter was named Livio. We thought he was the chef, but that turned out not to be true we think. (actually we later found out that he really WAS the chef!) The meal started with a flute of some kind of spumante. The menu stated “Welcome to our Historic Villas of Merion, the noblewoman of the latest 800 that made it erect as a proof of love. The feeling that has ispired this villa, relives in the magic atmospheres breathing among these boundaries, in the delicious dishes that we offer you and in the delicate melodies of the Harp played live. Only after having enjoyed of these details, we will be certain that you will understand our pride of having seen you happyguests.
The bread was great although it looked almost white in color. Gary had some Prosciutto di Norcia tradizionalmente servito con la torta unbra and Christine had Timballino di fagiolina del lago con sfoglie di oarmigiano e frittelle di tuberi. Peggy had mazzancolle al te verde su piccola parmigiana di melanzane al bastilico, mezzancolle flavored fith green tea on an aburgine scented with basil. I was trying to eat a bit light, but Livio brought me a dap of pate when the others had their Primi Piattis. For my main course I had Raviola aperto all verdure e burrata, grtinato, su battuto do pomodoro, raviolo filled augratin with vegetables and burrata with chopped tomatoes. Peggy and maybe Christine had the tagliatelline di casa accoppiate al gusto d’aneto, capesante e pomodorino. For dessert we had a peach frozen thing and something else which was great but I don’t remember. All in all it was a pretty spectacular lunch. We also had two bottles of Gary’s Isod Reserva which still held up pretty well.
We went up to the room and rested and relaxed and had a generally slow day. We went down and check ed out the pool and then went back at 8 to use their spa which they call a wellness centre. It had a sauna, a whirlpool and a “doccia emozionale” which I think means an emotional shower! It had for different programs whch sprayed various versions of hot and cold water much of which was way too cold for me. The whirlpool was great except when all four of us got un water splooshed EVERYWHERE! Peggy spent much of the rest of the time tryhing to mop it somewhere with her foot. The sauna was great. Christine even gave it all a shot. Once we got dried off we all walked into Tuoro to see what we could find to eat. We walked up the hill from Capricci past a little park and then into a square with a bar that was playing a soccer game on an outdoor TV. We quickly realized that it was a replay of the 2006 World Cup finals against France that was exactly one year ago July 9. We found a great little Osteria down a side street called Osteria Pergola. They had some killer rolls (coperti) Christine and I split a Caprese and I had gnocchi which was great. This was finally a reasonable dinner about €26 per couple. Probable the cheapest meal we have had so far. We sat under a huge blooming wisteria which made it perfect. At dinner Christine and Peggy had a little issue about what I had blabbed about Danny and Wildwood but there isn’t much that needs to be said other than the by the next day God had worked it out in their hearts. We had a gelato in the town square, I got some cash and then we walked back to the Capricci. Another relaxing but great day.

DAY EIGHT: Sunday, July 8, 2007 • Hike to the Etruscan Necropolis, Al Galopapa, Savoring the Cutello, Reading, Relaxing, and Taking a Dip

I probably had the best night’s sleep of the entire trip. I didn’t fully wake up until 8 or so and we went down for breakfast about and Gary had to wake Peggy a little before ten so she could get some breakfast. We planned to take a walk to the Etruscan necropolis and we left about 11 or so. It was a long hard walk but we all made it even if we did walk a little faster than the girls on the way there. We stopped at looked at that place I had seen earlier and it does have lots of possibilities. Later in the day Edith told us that many people ask about it but that it’s owned by a wealthy family who wouldn’t want to sell.
We were running out of time as we came back as our lunch reservation at Gallopapa was for 1:30 and it was quickly approaching 12:30. Gary and I actually ran back quite a bit of the last 300 meters or so and I had the joy of taking off my shoes and socks and going right in for a swim. I can not imagine a dip feeling any better. Gary got in soon after as did Peggy and Christine when they arrived. Christine even swam, I haven’t seen that too many times.

Al Galopapa
We agreed to meet at 1:15 to head into town for lunch at Al Gallopapa. We both took quick showers and didn’t leave until 1:20; but managed to get there by 1:33. Gary dropped us off at the end of the main promenade in Castellina to park and we walked to the restaurant. Peggy and I would have sworn it was closer than it was, but we finally got there and got our table in the walkway in the tunnel in the rampart. Apparently a couple was sitting at our table because they were asked to move ad soon as we arrived by the maitre’d who we would later discover was Tinzano, the owner. We had been wondering if Edith had made the reservation but she definitely had. Tinzano was a crack up definitely one of the major parts of the dining experience. I probably should say that Al Gallopapa received one Michelin star for 2007, but apparently they have had one since 2004. Only in the past three months have they begun serving lunch. I have looked on their web site several times and I even think Gary has as well, but it didn’t click until we saw them mentioned at the Castello Brolio cellars wine dinner and then were recommended from Mark and Martin who we met at Tregole. And then when we found out that we could have lunch at a somewhat reduced price it was clear Gary really wanted to try it out on Sunday. This was one of the other great parts of the experience was to see the great joy Gary got out of it. We all have our things that we look forward to and have passion for and this was clearly one of those for Gary. He was very excited about the whole experience.
Tinzano was a lot of fun and was joking with Peggy and Gary about who was in charge. We decided on the strategy of having five dishes for each couple. We knew it was going to be great when we took pictures of the presentation of the bread which also tasted fabulous. For the first course Gary and I had this unbelievable sliced pork which has an amazing story. It is only made in five cities in Italy and goes through an amazing curing process. It came with a dish of puffed crispy bread logs that were also fabulous (€15). I was trying to write the name down in my notebook when Tinziano came up and whisper to me that you can find all the names on the internet. For her first course Christine had a fried zucchini flower stuffed with a goat cheese panna cotta. We shared a pasta that looked like ravioli but it was called something else. For the main course we had rooster which also had gone through an amazing preparation process with bricks and perfect temperatures. The chicken was placed on a bed of spinach, but the most amazing part was the little dab of candied lemon that tasted completely lemony and salty at the same time. The combination of the chicken, the spinach and the lemon mixture WAS the perfect bite. In fact Christine, Peggy and I all had this as our main course. Gary had sliced bison with snow peas and some amazing crisp potatoes that also was pretty darn tasty. We decided on a Rosso de Montalcino for our wine and had two bottles. Sometime in the middle of the meal Tinzano came out in street clothes and informed us he was leaving to drive three people to Florence. Emanuelle, who had been our sommelier, took over and he was just as entertaining. We had to try the desserts so we had the cherry and apricot tart and a cake made with pine nuts. They were small but both very good. We ended the meal with espresso. No cappuccino after morning. And we also found out that dipping the bread in olive oil is also not Italian . Emanuelle offered us grappa to end the meal. It’s about 40% alcohol and Gary still thinks its nasty, but I think I’m developing a taste for it. I think I drank Christine’s and mine. By the time we got up and sauntered out the far end of the tunnel, it was 4 p.m.–a two and a half hour lunch–all for €222! (€111 per couple! Approximately $75 per person) We thought about trying to walk up to the other Michelin star place up the hill from the gelateria but dumped that idea to get back to Tregole.
We probably were back by 4:30 and I brought my computer out by the pool trying to catch up, I had fallen a day behind in my journaling, and wrote for about an hour. Then I went back in and got my suit on and got my book. I read awhile then got in for a dip. I found I could position myself so my face was perfectly facing the sun just peaking out of the water. The gentle warmth caressing my face felt brilliant…bene! Also who would have thought I’d get in three dips in three days. The next three hours was spent reading and enjoying the warmth of the sun. it wasn’t a bit hot. I even finally finished my book! This may have been the first true vacation day I have ever had. I loved it.
We had talked about not having any dinner after having such a late lunch but we decided to go into Catellina for a pizza and a gelato. We went in a little after 9, parked near the gelato place and walked (passigiata) down the main street. We saw a pizzeria called Tre Portes (three doors) and after deciding to eat inside instead of on the smoking terrace we had two pizzas and a bottle of Chianti Classico. Christine and Peggy shared the Bufalo with mozzarella and Gary and I shared a Picante with some kind of meat and sun dried tomatoes. It was all great accept with coperto it all came to €39. so much for a cheap dinner. The coperto wound up being nearly $13.
We then took a passigiata down to the gelateria and it was amazing how many people were out walking after 10 p.m. and most of them were locals. When we got to the gelateria, it ws even busier that the previous night. Peggy figured out that you had to pay to get a number and when I cot my number 85 they were just on 70! I has a €2 cup of berries of the forest and hazelnut and luckily Christine got the last of the peach.
We then drove down to try and see the Etruscan necropolis at night that Chiara had told us about, but we couldn’t get the lights to work and also there were a bunch of spooky looking teenager types sitting up by it. We decided not to walk up to it in the pitch dark and so we rolled back down the hill and back to Tregole.
I stayed up until nearly midnight trying to get caught up on my writing and then did a little reading.
What a grand day of rest and vacation.

DAY SEVEN: Saturday, July 7, 2007 • Sant' Antimo, Montalcino, Il Paradiso Di Frassina, Dinner with Dr. P

I woke at about six or so and just laid there resting, but at 8 I decided to get up ad go for a run. I decided to go for it and head toward the Etruscan Necropolis in Fonteroutoli 1.7K from the fork in the road at the 222. It was a tough go at times and I walked abounch of it but it was a great run/walk that took about an hour. Once I got to the tombs, there was information in English stored in a video case in a stand near the side of the dirt road. They also had information in German, French, and Italian. There really wasn’t that much to see, but I read it all and saw each of the four tombs and then headed back. On the way there were some spectacular views back to the 222 and I even found a place that would be the perfect €500,000 fixer upper. After breakfast we said our farewells to Mark and Martin who were heading back to Zurich today, about a six hour drive. We headed out on today’s adventure a little after 10.
We planned to head south at least to see Sant’Antimo and Montalcino. Edith gave us some better directions to get on the A2 at Badesse instead of going all the way to Siena and working our way through it.
From my Fodor’s information I had a step by step drive around the Val d’Orcia area so it seemed like the best thing to do would be to drive out to Pienza or Montlepuciano and them work back to Montalcino. We got to Pienza around 11:30 or so having passed by Quirico. My best guess it that the drive might be spectacular in the spring, but it definitely wasn’t that big of a deal in July. We parked in Pienza and walked around a bit, we passed a wedding going on and went into a couple of shops and churches and caught a couple of views. After finding the public WC, we decided to head back toward Sant’ Antimo. The rumor had it that we could hear the monks do their Gregorian chanting at 2:45, but we weren’t totally sure because it was Saturday. It was about 1 and we were trying to decide where and if we were going to have lunch. We also decided to take the back way to Sant’ Antimo which actually took us up to another couple of hill towns and back around.

Sant’ Antimo
When we got to the town above Sant’ Antimo it was about 1:30 and we fond a shop that confirmed that the Nona was at 2:45. Apparently the monks chant at least nine times each day. We found a place in the town and had a light lunch. I really didn’t want to eat, as I was still stuffed from all the eating we had been doing and Christine got a little annoyed at me over all this.. She hates it when I step out and leave the decisions to here. She just had a salad and Peggy had some Pinci (thick spaghetti) and ragu. We had some Rosso de Montalcino and then walked down at about 2 to wait for the 2:45 chanting. The abbetzia at Sant’ Antimo is really an amazing building. A beautiful cathedral placed literally out in the middle of nowhere. I really have never seen any thing like it in a setting like this. When the monks came out, there were only seven of them, but it was all pretty amazing none the less. There also had been a little interesting interplay between one of the monks and and a guy who was trying to video tape he whole thing. We also saw Debbie and Patrick whom we had met at the Borgo Argenina which was fun. It was all over by about 3:10 and we headed immediately up to Montalcino.

Montalcino
We entered the gate by La Fortezza and immediately found a great parking spot and got an hour and a half of parking. Through out the entire trip I have been reading a book called Vanilla Beans and Brodo by Isabella Ducci. It’s about the history and customs of Montalcino written by a woman who moved here with her husband, I would guess in the middle 90s. It really is a great book and it has kindled in me a rich interest in Montalcino. We began at the top of the hill near the fortezz and began walking down toward the main square. First we stopped and had gelato (our first on this trip) at a place called “Why Not?” Good question. The best part was that it had a bathroom! Just down the street was the hotel Gary and Peggy had stayed in in 2005, Il Giglio. We met the Michelle the owner and began talking with them about the book, what wineries might be open and several other things. He told us you can often see the husband, but only rarely do you ever see Isabella.
I don’t know how we got on it but he told us of one winery that plays music out in the field and that it has been proven that it has helped with yield, quality of fried and eliminating bugs. We walked down the main street and saw several of the restaurants Café Fiaschetteria , Taverna del Grappolo Blue and Bar Prato mentioned in the book. I had asked Michelle where the church with the Madonna was so I walked up to it and everyone followed. The Madonna or even the copy was not on display, but we went in and there were stunning views of the valley from the adjacent park. We walked up a huge set of stairs which Gary said were new and down through the quartieri of Ruga. Monltacino is divided into four quarters; Ruga, Travaglio, Borghetto, and Pianello. It seems they had had a contest recently as banners of burgandy and white were flying all over the city–I think from Borghetto. We stopped in front of another church which had to be in Ruga which had a flat square in front of it and rested while Christine made a couple of phone calls home. We decided to walk up into the Fortezza and there decided to taste three Brunellos. It was nearly 5 by this time and I was more than a little disappointed that we would not get to a single winery in Montalcino. L So the only option was to taste in the Fortezza. It cost 12 to taste three and Gary and I split it. We had a La Fuga 2001, a Chiusi from 1999, and a 2000 Cerre Nero (one of the places that had gotten a Wine Spectator 100 for the 2001?) Can’t say that I loved it, but it was fun. We got out of there with two minutes left on our parking time and headed back down the hill to get to our 8 dinner reservation at Osteria Fonterutoli. Along the way down the hill we passed the copper roofed monstrosity which appears to be some huge enoteca that isn’t completed yet.

Il Paradiso Di Frassina
We then came up to the sign that was for the place that Michelle from Il Giglio had told us about that played classical music in the field to help increase the production. Gary decided we needed to drive up and take a look so we climbed up a long road and a huge hill and wound around through several vineyards. We came to a house that said cantina (which usually is referring to cellars) and we parked and walked up to see what we could find. This is one of the things I love about Gary. No fear. And who knows what might happen unless you ask. So we looked around and found a woman who was sitting in an office and asked her if there was any chance we could taste as he dropped Michelle’s name from Il Giglio and to my surprised she said she would ask! Understand now that I was more than a little bummed that I wouldn’t even get to taste in even one Brunello winery. As we were waiting for the answer we began to hear the music off in the nearby fields. She came back and said we could join a tasting already in progress. It may seem trite, but what an answer from the Lord. I could not believe it was happening. I felt so excited, grateful, and blessed.
She led us back around to the cellar and met two thirty something Italian couples and the winemaker Carlo Cignozzi. This amazing idea of using music to enhance the production seemed to be totally his. He started first by playing music in the cellar and then eventually put speakers in the field. The University in Florence is now working with him as is the Bose company. What an incredible idea! WE tasted a GEA wine which was a Rosso de Montalcino, a 2004 Brunello, and his special 12 grape blend called DO 12 Uve which is a blend of 12 grapes to coincide with the 12 notes on the scale. He was a total kick. We even got to walk around the cellar and see the whole operation. I bought a 2002 Brunello and one of his 12 note blend. The Italian couples were fun too David was in some kind of financial business and his card gave him the title of “head of country.” The other guy was the typical gorgeous Italian guy and their wives were total babes but looked in their early 20s. We said our good byes and got out of there so we could be sure and make our 8 dinner reservation at the Osteria Fonterutoli. We were back on the road a little before 7 and made it back by 7:30 no problem.
We did not even go back to Tregole we just drove right up and got our table. Out Granite Bay friends Chris and Susan and family were there already and we sat right next to them. We got to talking and I said something about that we had had a friend that had recently stayed in his Kaiser Roseville hospital and some how it came out that her name was Navarre. And he said “I know Navarre.” Peggy then FREAKED out when she realized that this was the Dr. Pitkowski that had been Navarre’s doctor for over 12 years! She started squawking and Christine had to tell her to calm down.J For dinner Christine and I shared a Tuscan soup sampler (one was Ribollita-like and the other was made from barley) and Risotto cooked in Chianti Classico. Gary has a beef and porcini mushroom combo (he had to send the porcini back for more grilling) and Peggy had something with Pinci again. Try as we might we could not get out of there at less than €40 per couple. We had espresso and cappucino as well. I should also explain sometime what they call coperto. It is like a tip or service that we have had at every restaurant we have eaten at so far. It can be up to €2 per person and sometime it included bread and water, other times just bread.
We skipped dessert at the restaurant and drove back into Castellina to try out the gelato place every one was saying was so good. We got a parking place right out front and it was definitely the place to be. I had fragola and a chololate nut (hazel nut?) nicciolo thing in a cup. Christine said the peach was the best she had ever had. Hard to believe that today was our first gelato of the trip and we had some twice.
We were back to Tregole before 10 which was our earliest night so far.

DAY SIX: Friday, July 6, 2007 • Vignamaggio, Lamole, Greve, Chinghiale Attack!, Dinner with Edith at Tregole

Did not sleep as well last night. It felt like I woke up every couple of hours and I also was having weird dreams but I don’t remember what they were all about. Christine was awake when I got up and we decided to go for a walk together about 8. We had a great walk all the way to the 222 and back 3K for sure. Even when we got back Gary and Peggy were barely up, so we didn’t finish breakfast until a little after 10. Somewhere in there I took a bath but couldn’t quite figure how to make the Jacuzzi work.

Vignamaggio
We didn’t leave Tregole until about 10:15 and I was sweating it a bit but we got to Vignamaggio (7) at about five to 11 just before our reservation at 11. The tour and tasting cost €20 each. We waited around a bit and met a Swedish couple and their two daughters and they were joined by a bunch of other people mostly Americans in our group. Our tour guide was named Chiara and she was great. We walked around the estate, learned about their wine production, saw where Much Ado About Nothing was filmed in the garden, learned about the family that built the place and the first recorded evidence of wine being produced there in 1404, found out that Mona Lisa was probably born there although there isn’t must record of it, saw how the sundial on the wall worked and how it was off two hours because of day light savings time. We also went into their wine cellar and saw where the Chianti Classico and Riserva were being held in barrels. The last part of the tour was the tasting and mini lunch. Where Chiara showed us how to taste, smell and check the wine for color. They also had a great spread of meats, cheeses, and what was the best Tuscan bread we had had so far. We tasted the Chianti Classico 2005, the 2004 Riserva and the Vin Santo. The bad part about the Riserva is that it contains Merlot! It really was a pretty amazing spread.

Lamole
We left a Vignamaggio bout one and headed up the hill to Lamole for lunch at the Ristoro de Lamole. Peggy was convinced it was called Lamole di Lamole, but I knew what it was called but she refused to believe me. She can be so stubborn at times.
Lunch was amazing. I thought we were going to have something light, but no such luck. The four of us pretty much shared everything, but it still cost €50 per couple. We got the grilled Porcini again and again it was fabulous. We asked the waiter when was the local season for porcinis and he said around November and what they were getting now were from Bulgaria. Gary had an amazingly presented Caprese and a pasta with tartuffo that looked just like the one we got in San Regalo. Christine had a pasta with porcinis and then we all shared a tiramisu. We all had capuccino as well.

Greve
We grove down from Lamole and decided not to go the Tenuta Risecolli the winery with the French guy we first went to in 2005. We parked on the other side of the 222 from the town square and walked right over and bought a hat with a Chianti Gallo on it. Gary had one but lost it–it was his best driving hat. I had thought about that store many times wanted to go back and look closer at all they had. Actually all four of us got red hats with the gallo nero. Christine wanted to get a rolling pin like Peggy had gotten here and Gary and I wandered up the street at our own pace. The amazing find was the famous pork butcher shop Macelleria Facone. I have never seen so much meat in my life. Hundreds of full proschuitto legs hanging from the ceiling. Sausage. Pancetta. Unbelievable. There was a little room down some stairs filled various types of pecorino cheese. After we looked around a bit more Peggy bought her perfect hat and then we headed over across the street to La Cantina di Greve (8). Gary and I had been there last time and you buy a little credit card and then use it to dispense a few ounces of your choice from over 100 Chianti wines ranging in price from .60 to €3.20 per taste. I got a €10 card and Gary and Peggy shared one with €20. We tasted a variety of Chianti Classicos, Super Tuscans and Brunellos. It was fun but not as much fun as last time because we have already been to so many great places. After that we walked around to find Gary a cash machine and then headed back to Castillina. Christine and I were dead tired so we immediately went up to the room (3) for a nap. Gary and Peggy planned to take a little hike on some trails Peggy had supposedly found on the property. I couldn’t in a million years gather the energy to go on a walk at that time.

Chinghiale Attack!
While I was resting I heard Gary’s whistle and I went out to see if he was swimming. Peggy immediately asked “If we were going to be attacked by something what would it be?” I guessed “bees.” But that was totally wrong. I can’t believe I didn’t think of it. What was the answer? What were they attacked by this time after the nettles and the mosquitos? You would not have believed it unless it actually did happen, but on their hike they saw…cinghiale! Apparently they were walking along and Gary heard a “snort, snort” and looked up on the trail above and saw four chinghaile!. They had not smelled the humans yet so they backed out of there and beat a hasty retreat. There is no doubt that this story will be told and retold for the next hundred years. To support Gary as he was totally blown away by these events I decided to join him in the pool. Dippage! Once I actually got in it wasn’t all that fresca. Actually pretty refreshing.

Dinner with Edith at Tregole
We decided to have dinner with Edith here at Tregole and we were joined by Mark and Martin from Zurich. The family from Seattle (man, woman and young son) and Chris and Susan Pitkowski from Granite Bay. At some point we discovered that they lived about a mile from our church and go to Bayside; the father Chris runs Roseville Kaiser hospital and the wife works part time in the ICU at Mercy San Juan. The daughter will be a sophomore at Granite Bay and the son is still in elementary. The dinner began with three crostini including one made with the truffle that Gary bought from San Regalo on Wednesday, one with tomatoes and and one with a pastry crust.. We had a pasta with a mushroom sauce and the main course was chicken Cacciatore (hunter). Dessert was a another Tiramasu. WE also had our first tast of the wine they make here. We started with a 100% Sangiovese Chianti Classico from 2004 and then went to the 2003 (10). We preferred the 2003. We even had the winemaker, Edith’s husband, Catello drop by and ask us which we preferred. He also informed us that he never makes a Chianto Classico Riserva. Too much money, too much hype when the Straight classico is just as good. We had a great time sitting next to Mark and Martin hearing about his new place near lake Como and how often he likes to come to Tregole. We all went to bed about 11 and Peggy stayed up talking with them until about 2:30 a.m. Apparently they were joined by a Portuguese couple here to celebrate their fifth anniversary. We found out next morning that the woman from Seattle had to come down and tell them to quiet it down!

DAY FIVE: Thursday, July 5, 2007 • Leaving Borgo Argenina, Driving to Fattoria Tregole, Castellina, Quick Trip to Siena, Grilled Porcinis

Amen. I think I have adjusted. I slept in until 7:30 without a Tylenol P.M. I even felt pretty good. I was going to go for a run but Gary was just getting up so we decided to go for a long walk. We headed down the big hill to the main road and then up to Monti. The hill was a challenge, but we powered up past Monti di Sotto into Monti proper. We immediately began trying to figure out which apartment we wanted to buy. Should it get morning sun or would we want to see the sunset? How much would it cost? Could we get a two bedroom and two bath for $200,000? There were a couple of great signs about new developments and we thought we needed to call the number on it. We walked past a church Marcellini which dated from 1000 and even hear\d the bell ring at 8:30. We turned around at the crossroads and walked back through mini Monti (saw a snake) and even checked out where the apartments were that were run by the people who owned Isodi (the last winery we went to yesterday.) It looked pretty good for €800 per week and a pool. We made it back to the Borgo after a total of just a little more than an hour, but it was a great workout.
Christine was still pretty much asleep as having the shutters closed really kept the room dark–pretty good as it was well after nine. We got ready for breakfast and Gary was on his tatuffo mission. He was going to eat that truffle for breakfast no matter what. He wantes us all to smell it after he cleaned it. “Look at this! I think it’s a truffle scraper!” he exclaimed as he was looking through the kitchen drawer. At breakfast he got a knife from the server and proceeded to thinly slice the truffle which he then put on the top of a hard boiled egg. I even tried one and it really had surprisingly NO flavor. Now we’ll just wait to see if we keel over or anything.
We lingered a bit and talked with Patrick and his wife who we found out is named Andrea and then we came back past the lavender plant covered with bees and have been relaxing and writing and reading since about 10. We plan to leave about 12 and move over to Fattoria Tregole. The big question remains. Can we get all our stuff in the car?
Elena came by a little before 12 and I gave her my €80 for last night’s dinner and I got her to give me one of the recipe books that Peggy had. We packed and loaded up and somehow we did get it all into the car. Peggy and my suitcases from Costco did fit between in the back seat. Christine and Peggy sat in the back with Christine on the right and Peggy on the left. We headed out at almost exactly 12 and went on the dirt road toward Monti as we wanted to get some phone numbers to call about the properties we had seen there. The shortest route to Castellina was to take the dirt road by San Santo, but we quickly realized and Peggy demanded that we only drive on paved roads the whole way there. It was tough for Gary but he finally resigned himself to the idea that dirt was out! After getting our info in Monti we headed to Castillina via Radda and it really went quite quickly.

Fattoria Tregole near Castellina
We got to Tregole, which is about 4.5 K from Castellina, right around 1:30. We knew that check in wasn’t until two and Edith wouldn’t be back until then, but one of the workers let us in and showed us to our rooms. Gary and Peggy took the one down stairs with the sitting room and we went up to the smaller one with the Jacuzzi and the squeaky bed. It would be great because it will be darker and easier to sleep in I think.
After we got settled in we went to a restaurant called Il Tinello right on the 222. We almost left when the waiter got a little weird when we asked to move into the shade, but it turned out all right except for the two times the wind came up and blew water onto Gary’s back from the tent above. It was pretty crazy really. The food was spectacular though Peggy had the Bambardone con Melanzane e Provola which was pasta with aubergine and soft cheese; Christine had the Penne Tinello with panna, piselli, funghi, proschutto and crema tartuffo which was pasta with cream, cheese, peas, mushrooms, ham and truffled cream. I just had a big bruschetta and Gary had a big meat and cheese tray. We had three cappuchinos and an expresso and the bill came to €35 each.
When we got back, Edith was there and we checked in, paid and got a whole bunch of great travel information. The billed amount for four nights was €530. So apparently this will be cheaper for four nights than three at the Borgo. There was an initial problem at first when Edith claimed we were supposed to arrive yesterday, but we got it worked out when Gary showed her the emails we have. She had tons of great information and she helped us get a good handle on what we are going to do while we are here. We also plan to have dinner here on Friday night after going to Vignamaggio in the morning, Lamole for lunch, Tenuda Ricosoli and Greve in the afternoon.
After we got back to our rooms Christine and I took naps and Gary took a dip in the Tregole pool.

Siena
We left Peggy and Christine to read and relax and we decided to head out on a new adventure. At first I thought we’d do a couple of wineries, go into Castellina and maybe be done with it, but we decided to see how long it might take to get to get to Siena instead. The sign said it was only 14K away but Edith said it would take about a half an hour to get there. We figured it all out quite easily and by God’s grace even found a place to park pretty close to Il Campo near the Fortezza. Gary asked one guy and got us pointed in the right direction and after about 100 meters I saw the little bus station area where Christine and I had been in 2003 when we took that van tour of Chianti. So I immediately was pretty sure I knew where Il Campo was and how to walk there. Even though Il Palio was three days earlier the streets were still pretty crowded. Too many ill clad teenagers. J It seems all the streets in that area will get you to Il Campo especially if you keep walking down. Soon I saw a set of stairs which turned out to lead right to the center of Il Campo. My original interest was to see if the dirt from Il Palio was still there but it wasn’t. for some reason I am very fascinated with this place, probably because it looks nearly exactly as it did 500-600 years ago. Seeing Il Palio is definitely on my list of “things I came close to doing that I never quite got to do but still really want to” list. We took a couple of pictures and then got out of there and back to the car. Gary figured out that you had to pay your parking fee at this little booth we had passed earlier before you tried to exit (just like we had done in France). The cost turned out to be €1.60. We easily figured out how to wind our way out of the lot and then headed out of town. Gary was positive he knew where to go but as we funneled down the hill nothing looked familiar and I thought we were heading for Rome. Eventually with the help of the map we got on the A2 to Florence wich eventually connected with the 222 the famed Chiantigiana. Also as a bonus we had passed by all the Siena traffic so we got back to Tregole pretty quickly. Immediately after getting out of the car we hear Christine and Peggy laughing, we thought at us, but actually they were laughing at the sun chairs they were setting in. They have cute little pieces that could either be sunshades or head rests. We figured they had to be sunshades if they were positioned just right, We sat out there with them, positioning our chairs right next to the edge to get the best of the spectacular view. Gary mentioned something about seeing birds and in a moment a hawk of something soared by at eye level. We went back in and got that bottle of wine that Marta from Isolde e Elena had given us that was made by her son and they sat and enjoyed it. It was already about 7:15 so we went back in and got ready for dinner which was scheduled for 7 at Antica Tratoria La Torre.
We had a little trouble finding a place to park. For a moment we thought we had a good one but it was right next to the police station. We finally found a bunch of parking down the hill which worked out great. Most of these towns have plenty of parking you just have to find it and walk a bit. On the walk up we found the wine shop where Gary bought the little glass wine jug in 2005. We thought we were eating out side, but it really was in a tent attached to the front of the restaurant. We had a reservation made by Edith and were seated right away
Gary had a Caprese and also the best proschuitto and melon ever. Christine had a bread salad and a crunchy polenta dish with mushrooms. I had a dish with pasta and veal and pork sauce. Peggy had the chinghale with papperdelle much like I had at Rana in San Santo. The most amazing thing though were the fresh porcini mushrooms. They were advertised as a special in the front of the meny. Before they were cooked the waiter (Italian Pee Wee Herman) brought them out to show them to us. (Christine had this once before at Il Ritrovo in Florence). Really one of the most amazing flavors ever. Grilled with olive oil and salt and pepper. Amazing. For dessert we had the tiramisu and it had little crunchy chocolate balls which made it a little different. We had espresso and capucinno-another amazing meal although it too forever to get the conto. I think we paid about €36 total for each couple.
As we walked out of the tent we saw a sign for a free admission to the Museo Archeologico del Chianti Senese for what I think was called Le Notti dell’Archeologia which my guess id various museums around Tuscany offer free admission on specific nights. This was a nice little one that gave us a good intro to the Etruscans in Tuscany. We were there a good half an hour and then strolled around Castellina. There was a very cool walk that allowed you to walk in the actually city walls in a kind of tunnel. And there we found the restaurant Al Gallopappa that we had been hearing about and reading about. By the time we got back to Tregole it was probably after 11.